It just looks that way. I had to disassemble the extruder print head for service. The flow was getting reduced. I have cleared the nozzle before so this isn't a new experience. Just part of the "fun" of owning and operating one of these printers. I have to be willing and able to tear it apart and fix just about any part of it. There are no service people who will come out and do it for me (or you).
It was about time to replace the nozzle anyway, but it never happens at a good time. I was just starting to print a new design for a file case holder I had just created.
I need a few low cost parts and they are on order at the present time. Delivery is only a couple of days so it isn't a major issue or a long shut down.
What I did find was an original incorrect assembly from the factory. There is a very tiny temperature sensor for the extrusion nozzle heater that is supposed to be located in a tiny well in the heater block. It was not in the well but outside of it. It was touching the block so it did sense the temperature, but now I am thinking it will be a lot more accurate after I do the rebuild and it is in the proper location.
I am posting this as an example of what to expect when owning and operating a 3D printer. It is not all "push the button" and print.
The parts arrived as anticipated. I discovered the replacement filament feed tube is quite a bit shorter than the original. (See picture) So I had to decide if it was usable or if I would have to reorder a longer tube. I usually like to work with what I have in hand if at all possible.
The shorter tube required some modifications in some of the other parts. One of those daisy chain events where when one thing changes, everything after it has to change too. I was able to use the shorter tube.
I had to relocate the home switch for the Z axis about 0.25" lower than stock. The new nozzle height (shorter) caused me to run out of printer bed height adjustment. I also had to modify the white air direction tube on the filament cooling fan. It was dragging in the printer bed, so needed shortened. Neither modification was all that difficult.
What I have discovered is that printing quality has dramatically improved with the shorter tube length. It could be in my re-assembly I made the print head much more rigid, Whatever the reason, I am very pleased with the higher quality I can plainly see in the new parts I have made since the upgrade.
So it seems the old milling machine rule holds true for 3D printing. Keep the tool set-up as short as possible for the highest quality. It certainly works for me here.
|Original tube on the left.||Nozzle is now much closer to print head and far more rigid.|